A tenth of the Italian population lives on its coastal, river and lake islands, of which there are more than 400, from big-hitters Sicily and Sardinia to wilder, more remote isles in the Adriatic, Ionian, Lybian, Ligurian, Sardinian and Tyrrhenian Seas.
Ischia, Giglio and Elba are some of the most favoured among tourists and are undeniably appealing – but can be hot and crowded in July and August.
In which case why not look for the many under-the-radar gems, where you’ll find unspoilt wilderness and translucent waters, where you can eat figs and prickly pears straight from the tree. Forget wild nightlife and crowds, here you’ll be rubbing shoulders mostly with donkeys, goats and baby turtles. Here’s seven of the best.
Linosa
This jet-black volcanic isle is located off Sicily’s southern coast, but is closer to Malta and Tunisia. Part of the Pelagian archipelago (Lampedusa and uninhabited Lampione), its lava pebble beaches and cliffs are streaked with sulphur-yellow, black, green and red. Linosa looks like a slice of Mars on Earth. The waters, popular with divers, are patrolled by hammerhead sharks and sea turtles that lay their eggs on the shore.
Just one dusty road circles the isle, leading to an extinct volcanic crater and a sleepy fishing village with cute rainbow-coloured dwellings and bars that serve refreshing lemon granita. Wild capers grow out of brick walls – pop them straight into your mouth.
Cottages for two start at €80 per night, linosaerrera.it
Capraia
Prepare for a long sea journey. The ferry from Livorno takes three hours to reach this quaint Tuscan isle, which is within the Cetacean Sanctuary, swarming with dolphins and whales. Scuba divers flock to Capraia to see the giant groupers and barracuda.
On land, there’s a gentle buzz by the harbour and at the overhanging medieval stone village with its lookout towers and historic dungeons – Capraia used to be a prison island, but today it’s a sunseekers’ heaven, with rocky beaches and diving platforms poised over the sparkling water.
Double rooms from €100, visitcapraia.it
Ustica
Located north of Palermo on Sicily, this solitary, rocky Aeolian isle is surrounded by crystalline water, caves and underwater Roman relics. Hundreds of steps connect the harbour to village taverns where raw baby shrimps, lentils and pizza with anchovies, garlic and breadcrumbs are the local specialities. The best way to tour the isle is by fishing boat or on scuba full-day tour. Inland, the lush green countryside dotted with farms, donkeys and orchards, as well as the prehistoric village of Faraglioni.
Double rooms start at €70, visitsicily.info/en/localita/ustica
Zannone
This mesmerising atoll, part of the Pontine archipelago off Rome’s coast, is inhabited just by wild goats. Its golden rocky inlets are dotted with Ancient Roman fisheries and there are no hotels or bars, just mouflon sheep. You get here on boat day trips from its sister isle, Ponza, with fishermen who spin tales and lead groups to the 19th-century Punta Varo lighthouse.
Ruins of a 13th-century Benedictine convent and lavish villa where a Roman couple held orgies and wild parties in the 60s hint at a varied past. Overnight visitors are not permitted, but day visitors can sunbathe on the seaweed-flecked beach where the lascivious marquise once skinny-dipped.
prolocodiponza.it
Giannutri
Shaped like a crescent moon, this is the jewel of the Tuscan archipelago where just a handful of residents live year-round. Prepare for a hermit-like unplugged stay amid clear waters, ruins of an ancient Roman villa and a little piazza where tourists rub shoulders with villagers.
Spend time trekking across rugged cliffs, kayaking in sea grottos and swimming in hidden inlets. Don’t expect fancy restaurants, there are none – just one bar that sells snacks and a mini-market. If you’re staying more than a few days, it’s best to bring along pasta and hams.
Apartments start at €150, ledimoredimimmina.com
Asinara
Once a quarantine hospital, and later a jail where mafiosi were shipped to and confined, this paradise-like isle off Sardinia’s north-western coast now lures nature lovers. It’s part of a protected marine park with limited tourist access.
The only inhabitants are wild, albino donkeys – who gently welcome tourists – as well as boar and mouflon sheep. There are no cars on the island, just bikes, 4×4 tours and a little panoramic train.
Former prison cells have been turned into hostel rooms that start at €50, sognasinara.it
Pianosa
Dubbed “Devils Island” in the past, Pianosa was once where notorious criminals were imprisoned. Now it’s bliss. Flat as a pancake and shaped like a butterfly, only a few hundred visitors allowed to visit each day and bathing is restricted to specific areas. Beaches are covered in pink fossil and shell dust; at night barracudas dance under starry skies.
Explore on guided bike and horseback riding tours to witness the crumbling prisons, Roman catacombs and an old fortress. Just a handful of residents live here alongside 10 inmates on supervised release who run the only beachfront hotel restaurant.
Double rooms start at €50pp, albergopianosa.it
